Wednesday, September 08 2010
Section 1: Colonial Quarter

The Fort & public buildings

BOUNDED by the sea in the north and the east, this part of George Town was once known as the Colonial Quarter. It is encircled by Jalan Duke, Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah, Lebuh Pantai and Lebuh Light. The main attraction is the 19th century Fort Cornwallis. Beside the Fort is the Esplanade, and the playing fields, which the colonials regarded as essential for the health of any community and its people. It was also the only permitted focus for the various classes and ethnic groups to mix and meet with one another, in competitive sports. Located at the western end are the City Hall and Town Hall. Dewan Sri Pinang, Penang's first multipurpose hall, houses the State Art Gallery.

On the opposite side of Lebuh Light and bounded by Lebuh Bishop are more public buildings including the remains of King Edward Place (now the Islamic Council office), the State Assembly Building and the newly restored Supreme Court complex. Key administrative institutions have remained here including the immigration and customs offices.

Eurasian neighbourhood
Lebuh Bishop, Lebuh Gereja, Lebuh Farquhar

Lebuh Bishop and Lebuh Gereja formed the old Eurasian settlement. They were Catholic settlers of mixed ethnic origin, mostly of Portuguese extraction, fleeing persecution, migrating from Siam to Kuala Kedah and finally to Penang. They built their church in Lebuh Gereja whilst the Presbytery of Bishop Garnault was built at Lebuh Bishop (now De Silva's).

The Penang Heritage Trust Office is located at the bottom end of Lebuh Gereja. Opposite the PHT office is the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, formerly the home of Kapitan Chang Keng Kwee, the leader of the Hai San secret society and a wealthy tin miner.

The entire Eurasian community eventually located themselves across Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling settling around the new church complex between Lorong Stewart and Lorong Love. At the junction of Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling and Lebuh Light is the Anglican St George's Church with a Roman memorial dedicated to Francis Light in its grounds. Further down Lebuh Farquhar and bordering Lorong Love is the Cathedral of the Assumption, built in 1860.

Great schools
Jalan Light & Jalan Farquhar

George Town was once the educational centre of the region. The Penang Free School (est 1816), the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus at Light Street (est 1852), St Xavier's Institution (est 1852) and St George's Girls School (est 1885) were all established here. The Penang State Museum now occupies a wing of the Penang Free School. St Xavier's was destroyed during WWII and was rebuilt in 1952. Near the E&O Hotel sits the ruins of St George’s Girls School. Only the Convent is housed in its original building. The school complex also includes the original Government House within its premises.

Protestant Cemetery
Junction of Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah & Lebuh Farquhar

At the western-end, where Lebuh Farquhar meets Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah (formerly Northam Road) is the Protestant Cemetery. Here, at the edge of the historic core, lie the tombstones of George Town's European pioneers. Francis Light's grave is located there. Other personalities include the Rev Hutchings who founded the Free School and Sir Philip Dundas, Penang's first Governor.

The E&O Hotel
Jalan Farquhar

The newly restored Eastern & Oriental Hotel is now a heritage landmark. Established in 1885 by the Armenian Sarkies Brothers, the E&O is Penang's most luxurious hotel with its amazing Echo Dome. Many famous people have stayed at this grand hotel including Rudyard Kipling, Noel Coward and Malaysia's first Prime Minister Tunku Abdul Rahman. Located nearby is the evergreen Latin Quarter where the Penang Bowl is still operating after 50 years and the Leong Yin Kean Mansion, now housing an upmarket restaurant called 32.

Model restoration Area
Muntri Street, Lebuh Leith and Lorong Love

Particularly interesting is the late 19th century Straits Chinese middle-class Lebuh Muntri, which lies between Lebuh Chulia and Lebuh Farquhar. Many Straits-eclectic shop-house dwellings have been restored to their former glory. The Ta Kam Hong (Goldsmiths Guild) and the Hainanese Association are all located here. Lebuh Muntri joins up with Leith Street in the west and Love Lane in the east. Lebuh Leith was formerly Hakka millionaire's row, with the iconic Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion now its central attraction. Lorong Love, which is located between St Xavier's Institution and the Church complex, is where the Carpenters Guild is located. Smart and newly restored homes and cafes are quickly springing up in this model restoration area.