THE CENTURY-OLD ferry service, started by Quah Beng Kee, to connect the island with Butterworth on the Malaysian mainland, is still operating. The FMS Railway Building, topped by its famous Clock Tower, greets visitors from the mainland. It is the only railway station in Malaysia without a railway, it being across the water in Butterworth.

All along Pengkalan Weld is a series of access roads to the coast called “Gats”. They offer a glimpse of the old waterways and the various communities associated with historic George Town. Beginning with China, Market, Chulia, Armenian, Acheh, Malay and ending at “Sia Boey” (the city limits) at Prangin Canal.

It is also along Pengkalan Weld that one finds the Clan Jetties. These are floating villages belonging to Chinese fisherfolk. There used to be a small mangrove swamp that was homing grounds for egrets and other water fowl.

Running parallel to Pengkalan Weld is Lebuh Victoria and Lebuh Pantai. Some of the most impressive buildings in the city are located here. Look out for the Chartered Bank, Hong Kong Shanghai Bank and OCBC Bank buildings. Streets parallel to Lebuh Pantai like Lebuh Penang and Lebuh Victoria were the enclave of diverse professions. Lebuh Penang, for example, is still an old lawyers’ haunt.