Old Chinatown

LEBUH China was the original Chinatown. At the top where it meets Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling is the Kwang Hock Keong Temple, better known locally as the Guan Imm Teng (Temple of the Goddess of Mercy). This temple was originally dedicated to Ma Chor, the patron goddess of seafarers, and in the early days of George Town, was the focus of most social, educational and business endeavours of the Chinese community. Beside it is the Chinese Town Hall.

Where Lebuh China meets Lebuh King marks the beginning of the Chinese clan enclave. All along this section of Lebuh King until Lebuh Chulia, are dialect group and clan associations. This area was once a Cantonese domain, hence their various associations like the Chong San Wooi Koon, the Cantonese Tua Pek Kong temple, and the Toi San Nin Yong Hui Kwon (Kwan Kong temple). Lebuh King is also home to the Ng, Lee, Lu, Chang, Kwan and Chin surname associations.

George Town’s main clan associations are located further south. These clan meeting-houses were referred to as Kongsi (from Cantonese kong, to speak). Crossing Lebuh Chulia and at the bottom of Lorong Pitt is the Lim Clan Association. To reach the Yap Kongsi and Khoo Kongsi, walk down Lorong Soo Hong until Lebuh Armenian. The Yap Kongsi is at the junction of Lebuh Armenian and Lebuh Canon. The magnificent Khoo Kongsi is located within a sheltered enclave named Canon Square, after the firing of canons during the 1867 Penang Riots.

The Indian enclave lies in the vicinity of Lebuh Queen and Lebuh Pasar. The Mariamman Temple at Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling is where the annual Thaipussam festival begins. This area has a vibrant atmosphere, particularly during celebrations and feast days, with its carnival spirit.

Around Lebuh Buckingham and Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling is the Indian Muslim enclave. The famed Indian Muslim Habib Jewels started here. Other than jewellers, the street is lined with money changers. Part of Lebuh Buckingham has been turned into social housing to make sure that locals are not priced out of the city. The Kapitan Keling Mosque operates like a community centre, with sermons preached in Tamil. Kapitan Cauder Mauhiddin’s mausoleum is located at Jalan Kampong Kolam (next to a parking lot).

Forming a rectangle are Lebuh Acheh and Lebuh Armenian. Here were the homes and businesses of Arab traders and the Armenian community. At the centre is the Lebuh Acheh Mosque, which is surrounded by an Arab kampung now newly restored by the State Islamic Council.

The premises of Sheikh Omar Basheer, George Town’s revered 19th century Muslim cleric, is located here. Pesama Press, once the chief regional printing house, is also located here. Haji Yusof Rawa, former pas president, managed the printing house. The first Malay novel set in Malaya, Iakah Salmah, by Ahmad Rashid Talu, was written here.

In Lebuh Armenian are located restaurants, cafes, art galleries and residential houses, all newly restored. Khoo Salma’s Areca Books is at 120 Lebuh Armenian, which was formerly the Penang base of Dr Sun Yat Sen, father of the 1911 Chinese Revolution. Also, a must visit is Edelweiss Cafe, for a little bit of Swiss hospitality.

Running parallel to Lebuh King and at the centre of the historic city is Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling. Here, all the chief religious houses are represented. At the top is the Anglican St George’s Church, followed by the Guan Imm temple, the Mariamman Hindu temple and the Moorish Kapitan Keling Indian Muslim Mosque. Dubbed the “street of harmony”, Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling has become a national symbol of inter-cultural harmony.